When you’ve got a dripping tap or a stiff handle that won’t turn properly, the first question is usually: repair it or replace it. The answer depends on the age of the tap, what’s gone wrong, and whether the numbers make sense.
Here’s how to work through the decision.
When repair makes sense
If your tap is relatively new — say under 10 years old — and the problem is a worn washer, failed O-ring, or faulty cartridge, repair is usually the sensible option. These are standard wear-and-tear parts designed to be replaced.
Repair makes most sense when:
- The tap body itself is sound. No visible corrosion, no cracks, and the chrome or finish is still in decent condition.
- Replacement parts are readily available. Branded taps from known manufacturers usually have parts you can order. Cheap unbranded taps often don’t.
- The repair cost is under half the price of a replacement tap plus fitting. If the repair is £70 and a new tap fitted would be £180, repairing is the obvious choice.
- It’s a quality tap worth keeping. A good mixer tap or thermostatic shower tap that just needs a new cartridge is worth repairing. A budget builder’s-grade tap that’s failed after three years probably isn’t.
The most common repairable faults are worn washers in compression taps and failed ceramic cartridges in mixer taps. Both are straightforward jobs for a plumber, and if the tap is otherwise fine, you’ll get years more use out of it.
When replacement makes sense
Replacement starts to look better when the tap is old, corroded, or has needed multiple repairs in a short period. If you’ve replaced the washer twice in six months and it’s still dripping, the problem is usually a worn or damaged valve seat, which is harder to fix and not always worth it on an old tap.
Consider replacing when:
- The tap is visibly corroded or pitted. This is common in older Teesside homes where hard water accelerates wear. Once the chrome finish has gone and the brass underneath is pitted, the tap is on borrowed time.
- Replacement parts aren’t available. Discontinued models or cheap unbranded taps often have no spare parts. You’re stuck with replacement.
- You’ve had multiple repairs in a short period. The tap is wearing out generally, and throwing more money at it doesn’t make economic sense.
- The tap type is outdated. If you’ve got separate hot and cold pillar taps and you want a mixer, now’s the time to upgrade.
- You’re renovating anyway. If you’re refitting the bathroom or kitchen, replace the taps as part of the job. You’ll avoid a mismatched look and the plumber is already there.
- The valve seat is damaged. If limescale or wear has scored the valve seat, the tap will keep dripping even with a new washer. Regrinding the seat is possible but not always practical on older taps.
In Teesside’s hard water area, limescale damage is a major factor. Limescale builds up inside cartridges, on valve seats, and around seals. What starts as a simple washer replacement can turn into a bigger job when you discover the valve seat is scored or the cartridge housing is clogged with scale. If the tap has been in service for 15 or 20 years, replacement is usually the cleaner option.
Typical costs: repair vs replace
Here’s where the numbers come in. Repairing a tap typically costs:
- Washer replacement: £60–£90 (parts and labour). Quick job, usually under an hour.
- Cartridge replacement: £70–£120 depending on the tap brand. Some cartridges are expensive, especially for high-end or thermostatic taps.
Replacing a tap costs:
- Budget taps: £30–£80 for the tap, plus £80–£120 fitting. Total: £110–£200.
- Mid-range taps: £80–£200 for the tap, plus fitting. Total: £160–£320.
- High-end taps: £200+ for the tap, plus fitting.
The decision often comes down to this: spending £70 to repair a £200 tap makes sense. Spending £70 to repair a £40 tap that’s already showing its age doesn’t.
If you’re replacing multiple taps — say all the taps in a bathroom — it’s usually more cost-effective to do them all at once. The plumber is already there, and you’ll avoid a mismatched look.
Types of tap and their repairability
Not all taps are equally easy to repair. Here’s a quick breakdown:
Traditional compression taps (the kind with separate hot and cold pillar taps and a turning handle) are very repairable. Washers are cheap and widely available. As long as the valve seat isn’t damaged, these taps can be repaired repeatedly. They’re common in older Teesside properties and often worth keeping if they’re in good condition.
Ceramic disc taps use a ceramic cartridge instead of a rubber washer. The cartridge usually lasts longer, but when it fails, you need to replace the whole cartridge. This is straightforward if the cartridge is available and fits correctly. Some brands have proprietary cartridges that are expensive or hard to source.
Mono mixer taps (single-lever taps) almost always use a ceramic cartridge. Repairable, but the cartridge has to match exactly. If you don’t know the brand or model, finding the right part can be tricky.
Thermostatic taps (common in showers) are more complex. The thermostatic cartridge controls water temperature and can be expensive to replace — sometimes £100+ for the part alone. If a thermostatic tap is old and the cartridge has failed, it’s often worth replacing the whole unit rather than hunting down a specific cartridge.
The limescale factor
Teesside sits in a hard water area, which means limescale is a constant issue. Limescale doesn’t just fur up your kettle — it builds up inside taps, too.
Over time, limescale deposits on the valve seat, inside ceramic cartridges, and around O-rings and seals. This causes taps to stiffen, leak, or drip even after you’ve replaced the washer. A scored valve seat caused by limescale buildup means the tap will keep dripping no matter how many new washers you fit.
If you’re repairing a tap in a hard water area, it’s worth checking the valve seat for scoring or pitting. If it’s damaged, you can sometimes regrind it with a specialist tool, but on older taps it’s often easier to replace the whole unit.
Hard water also shortens the life of ceramic cartridges. They’re not designed to cope with constant limescale exposure, and once the ceramic discs are scored, they won’t seal properly. If your tap has been in place for 10 or 15 years and you’re in a hard water area, replacement is usually the sensible option.
Practical tips for deciding
If you’re still on the fence, here are a few practical pointers:
- Get a diagnosis first. A plumber can tell you whether the fault is a simple washer or something more serious. If the valve seat is damaged or the tap body is corroded, you’ll know replacement is the better option. See: Taps
- Consider the age and quality of the tap. A five-year-old branded mixer tap is worth repairing. A 20-year-old unbranded tap probably isn’t.
- Think about the whole room. If you’re replacing one tap, consider whether the others are likely to fail soon. Replacing all the taps at once can save money and avoids a mismatched look.
- Keep a note of brands and models. If you’ve got branded taps, write down the make and model. This makes it much easier to order spare parts in future.
- Think about usability. If you’re replacing anyway, consider upgrading to quarter-turn taps (ceramic disc types that turn 90 degrees to open). They’re easier to use, especially for elderly or arthritic users.
If you’re dealing with a persistent leak and you’re not sure what’s causing it, it’s worth reading our guide on Why Is My Tap Dripping? for a breakdown of common faults.
For broader plumbing issues or bathroom upgrades, see: Plumbing, Bathroom Plumbing, Leak Repairs
Final thoughts
There’s no hard rule for repair vs replacement — it depends on the tap’s age, condition, and what’s gone wrong. As a rough guide: repair if the tap is relatively new, the fault is straightforward, and the cost is under half the price of replacement. Replace if the tap is old, corroded, or has needed multiple repairs, especially in a hard water area like Teesside.
If you’re not sure, get in touch and we’ll diagnose the fault and give you a clear recommendation with costs.